Saturday 25 June 2011

Travels with a mule

The adventure starts when we arrive in Imlil, a small village in the High Atlas mountains (1700m). The temperature is in the mid 20s and a wonderful relief from the blazing heat of Marrakech, where it was over 40 degrees. Our guide Abdellah and our muleteer Hassan load up the mule with provisions and our bags, and we set off for our first overnight stop in a "gite" in the village of Aremd, a couple of hundred meters higher up. The stone cabins are basic but comfortable and we prepare for the trip.

Hassan comes from this area and he and his fully-loaded mule spring up and down the narrowest of tracks at a rate we haven't a hope of matching. When we make it to each stop on our trek, he's already preparing yet another excellent meal for us using often the most basic equipment. He is reserved at first, but always has a welcoming smile on his weather-beaten face and gradually responds to our rather pathetic attempts at Arabic. Both he and Abdellah are Berbers, or Amazigh (free people) as they call themselves, berber coming from the Roman term barbarian.

Abdellah is a young man from the desert, proficient in many languages, friendly, strong in faith and ready to share his views on Moroccan society, the landscape we are wandering through and the world in general. He guides us along the rugged and often difficult mountain paths giving words of advice and encouragement when needed, and laughing, singing and praising Allah for the wonderful day we are having.


Our first day's trek (6 hours walking) takes us gradually up to 3000m along increasingly stony and steep paths via a beautiful waterfall to a little mountain refuge. The Tazarhart refuge or mountain cabin is owned by Club Alpin Francais, but run by local people. Perched high up on a ledge overlooking a waterfall it is a spectacular place. Though very basic, we are comfortable enough with good food to eat and matresses in the loft. The only downside being lack of any real washing facilities to clean off the day's sweat.

The next day was the easiest of the trek with just four hours of walking. We make our way over a pass to the large Toubkal refuge in the valley at the foot of the highest mountain in N. Africa. However, it wasn't a completely pain-free day as we had to zig-zag our way up a gully on a path with 99 bends, yes I counted them!

The amazing thing is the variety of wild flowers in what at first sight looks like a barren landscape - bright flashes of colour that suddenly catch your eye.
The refuge has beds for 200 people in dorms and there was a real mixture of nationalities exchanging experiences. Most groups had their own guide and/or cook with them, though there were a few people doing it on their own. The best thing about it was the hot shower! Having cleaned off the sweat, we rested to acclimatize ourselves to the height and prepare for the big day...the ascent of Toubkal.



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